If you think using the traditional stain applied with a brush or cloth is tedious, time consuming, and messy, using an aerosol toner or finish may be the solution you are looking for. Aerosol finishes have improved a great deal over the years and are typically used on mass-produced furniture and smaller pieces like bun feet and table legs as it dries too quickly for bigger pieces such as cabinets. It is just as durable as brushed-on finishes, and it leaves no brush strokes. With Aerosol finishes, color variations can be evened out, leaving more even coloring throughout the piece. Blotched or uneven finishes can also be shaded or blended.
There are many different types of aerosol finishes on the market: varnish, lacquer, polyurethane, water-based polyurethane, and shellac. There are also many different types of toners which can be used for specific jobs. Shading toners are used for blending lighter areas, darkening white edges, and correcting flaws. Shadow-shading toners give a light shadow over repair work that avoids a "painted look" and keeps the repaired spot from looking darker than the rest of the piece. Background toners come in solid colors and are used to completely cover a large repair job. They are designed to match popular wood colors. Pigmented lacquers are used for complete color changes and color adjustments. Finally, there are toners called "Block-it," used to add richness to faded colors or to slightly change the color of the finish.
Dark Wood Shelves
Economics could play a role in deciding if aerosols are right for you. Aerosols are much less expensive than brush-on or wipe-on finishes, and there is less waste because there are usually no leftovers that you would use again.
Nozzle design can make a difference in finishing. Most aerosol cans produce a simple round or doughnut shaped pattern. Using a trigger handle can dramatically improve control and is much easier on the finger. Aerosol finishes are applied in layers and are diluted to make for easier spraying. By applying the finish in layers, dark spots occurring from overspray are avoided. The mess is kept to a minimum by spraying in a box. Make sure the box is long enough to extend past the piece by about two inches on either side of it so the spraying can begin before the piece is reached. This eliminates puddles forming at either end of the piece. One of the most important things for achieving even coverage is to keep the wrist locked, hold the can six to twelve inches from the piece, stay parallel to the piece, and not move the can in an arc. Apply the second coat perpendicular to the first coat. Most aerosols perform best at a temperature of 75 degrees and very low humidity. Aerosols are very fast-drying so the process is quick. Heavy coats should be avoided as this can cause running in the finish. Be sure each layer dries before applying the next coat.
Be sure to use proper ventilation and a respirator when finishing. When storing aerosols, keep them in a fairly cool place as heat could cause the can to explode. Shelf life is usually about two years. If you are unsure of how old the finish is, be sure to do a test spray before applying it to the piece.
Probably the best thing about aerosols is there is very little clean-up. Simply invert the aerosol and depress the spray head to clear the tube inside the can. No brushes to clean or messy rags to deal with. If there is any finish left in the can, just put it on the shelf until the next time and it will be ready to serve your finishing needs again.